Scarf for a Friend

I have been working on a scarf for a friend who turns 40 in early April.  I love the lace pattern. I hope that it holds its shape after I block it. Right now the points have curled in on themselves while I'm knitting, so I pinned them out so  you could get the idea of what it will look like finished. I think that I have about 10" left to go, to make it a nice long scarf!  I should finish it by the end of the week, so I have plenty of time to block it properly.

I have also been working on the February Lady Sweater. I have about 5" left on the body and then I can start on the arms!! I cannot wait to wear this sweater. It is going to be hard to sit there and look at it while its drying during blocking. I will just want to wear it straight off the needles.

Maybe I will learn a little more patience this month as I finish some awesome projects. Or maybe not. I am very impatient by nature.

Baby Shower

I can't wait for to go to the baby shower this weekend! I have been doing a little knitting to welcome the new boy into the world.

As I was working on the Fresh Picked hat I left the couch for five minutes to make some tea and the dogs proceeded to take over. So I figured I'd take some pictures of the dogs with my knitting! haha. Good thing they are cute dogs because they sure do take up a lot of room no matter where they lay down.
(Oh and excuse my yellow floral couch, it was free...)

I am almost done with the hat and thumb-less mitten set. They are turning out very well and I love the change of color in the yarn!

We cannot wait for the new addition to our small community! Bring on the baby boy!

New Needles

 

I love presents, especially ones that I buy for myself! My newest present was a set of interchangeable knitting needles from Denise. I spent $50 on the set. It comes with sizes 5 through 15 US. Along with all of those tips the set comes with four cords ranging in length from 5" to 19".  The set makes circular needles and straight needs with straight connectors and end butt connectors. So far so good with the knitting. They are smooth, the yarn moves very well over the surface of the needles. The one thing I was worried about when I saw the case was the fact that the cords were all bunched up in the box. I thought that they would not stretch because they had been in the box in the same spot for so long. But believe it or not the cord does stretch out and it does not hold the shape of the box! Yippee.

As you can see the cords are kept in a squarish shape but to my surprise they do stretch. I hope that this box solves the problem of never having the right needles at the right time! So far it has been the best $50 I've ever spent on my knitting obsession.

AHHH!

I have been knitting on the February Lady Sweater for quite some time and I got quite a ways on the lacey part of the pattern. And then I realized that I was not going to have enough yarn to finish the project! Ahh! So, I went to my local yarn store to pick up some more yarn and, they didn't have anything close to the color that I had previously picked out there! Oh Poor Me! haha. Oh-well I guess. I found this new color that I actually love more even than the original color that I started the sweater in. So I have started over and I am working diligently on with this new color to the left. What I beginner mistake that I will hopefully not make again. This time I bought more than enough yarn to finish the sweater and I hope that with all my practice with the lace and separating the sleeves that this time things will go even faster!

  

This picture is a little blurry but I think that is shows the color of the yarn a little better than the first picture.

It's Love

I looove this website!

Eskimimi Knits 

I am so happy that I cam across this site. The knitting is amazing!

Everyone should check this out. I am just in awe and had to write about it. I aspire to be such an amazing versatile knitter someday. This just makes me want to knit even more because of all the possibilities that can one can think up for knitting.

The colors used are fabulous the techniques are perfect and the products are stunning!

Everyone who loves knitting should check out this site.

Some Progress

The sweater that I have been working on is coming along well. I have had to rip it out a couple of time because the increases I made were a little weird and I messed up the lace a little at the start.

Once I figured out what I had done to mess things up it was an easy fix and things have been going well and I have been making a lot of progress! Yippee. I am a little concerned that the sleeves will be a little wider than I would like but I will only know when I get to that step.

This is the button that I have chosen for the sweater. I will sew it on horizontally not vertically like the picture. I just hope that it is not too big. I am already having second thoughts about having three of these big buttons on the front of the sweater. We will just have to see!

Blocking

So I have recently started the February Lady Sweater by Flint Knits and the patter calls for blocking. I am not the most experienced knitter, so I have been wondering, "How do I block something"?

Well I found this website knitty.com with a great article on blocking. Well I felt I had to share it. It had great information. So here It is.


By Jessica Fenlon Thomas
To Block or Not to Block…
I used to think that blocking was something they did in football. I ignored the instruction "block garment pieces before seaming" because I didn't see the value or the point of it. Of course, it didn't help that many of the patterns that I chose didn't even call for blocking.
It wasn't until I had been knitting a while and wanted to even out my stockinette stitch that I learned how to block. That and, no matter what I did, even if the pieces measured so that the armhole fit, it always was uncomfortable, the fabric pulling strangely because I have a bust.
At the time, I was working at a yarn store. I asked knitting doyenne N for some solutions. As always, there were more than one. N suggested to me, "You could take apart the sweater, rip the front out to the beginning of the armholes and re-knit it with short row darts for the bust."
"That's never going to happen," I replied, not wanting to admit that I didn't know what a short row was.
"You could block it into shape." I looked at N blankly.
"You did block your pieces, didn't you?" Still looking blankly.
"Blocking makes your life so much easier. You shape the pieces into the way you want them to live, using steam or water. It makes your knitting more even and sets the stitches. And you can fix a lot of boo-boos that way."
So I went home, and cracked open my pristine copy of Vogue Knitting to the blocking section. This book was so detailed that I hadn't read it cover to cover. But there it was: how to block wool garments.
I didn't want to take the sweater apart, so I decided to wet-block. I filled the bathtub with enough lukewarm water to cover my sweater. After removing it, gently, from the tub, I used several towels to press the excess water out of the sweater.
I laid out my wet sweater on a garbage bag [to dry faster since the water doesn't soak into it and then have to dry back through the sweater]. Then I went to work with the plastic-wrapped newspaper I had prepared ahead of time. I stuffed the front of the sweater, shoulder through bust. It was amateurish, but it worked. No more bunchy lines running from nipple to armpit! Woo hoo!
This small success piqued my interest in the blocking process and what it can do for a knitter. I learned on my next project that blocking really makes my life easier. I have control over the fabric and how it hangs [its 'drape']. Seaming goes in a flash. The stitches have been set and I can see exactly where I need to insert the needle. I also have been able to make sleeves longer or make shoulders wider.
The fiber I'm working with determines how I block it. I work with wool, linen, silk, and cotton, or these fibers blended with human-made fibers. Each behaves differently based on their blocking treatment. Some fibers can be weakened or destroyed if you treat them the same way as others. Do not treat silk as you would wool.
Wool and other animal-hair fibers are built of protein. Each 'hair' of wool is a system of overlapping scales. The scales hold air inside the fiber. That's why wool is so warm. Also, wool fibers can absorb a ton of water without feeling wet because of its structure. Wool is strong and has a lot of memory -- it springs back to its original shape after it has been stretched. However, wool is weaker [more prone to breakage] when wet.

Blocking wool: I use one of these three basic ways to block wool garments.
1. Wet-blocking. Wet the pieces of the garment. If you have heavy cabling, you may want to press out the excess water using towels [NEVER WRING -- wool is fragile when wet and you can damage the fabric this way!] Pin them out to the desired dimensions and let them dry, usually over several days.
2. Steam-blocking. Pin the pieces out to desired dimensions, wrong side up. Wet an old sheet or pillowcase & wring out so it's damp. Using a hot iron, press lightly down on the pillowcase, forcing steam through the fabric. Continue until the pillowcase is dry.
Alternately, skip the pillowcase and set your iron to a steam setting. Float the iron over the surface of the fabric WITHOUT TOUCHING, forcing the steam through. Let the fabric cool and dry.
3. Pin/spritz blocking. Pin the pieces out to the desired dimensions. Using a spray bottle, spritz each piece until damp [but not soaking]. This is best for fine-gauge wools.

Wet-blocking is easiest for adding length. I just added four inches to a sweater sleeves and body by wet-blocking and re-proportioning the garment. It was a bulkier gauge sweater, and hadn't relaxed enough during steam-blocking. It finally looks good to me; the fabric has opened up and moves more now.
However, 'finessing' garment pieces can be done with a steam iron and some patience. Pin a piece [or the garment] as close as you can get them to be. Steam the crap out of it. While the piece is still warm & damp, stretch it a bit more, and steam onward. You can get stockinette stitch to lie flat if you stretch & steam it for quite some time.
Other animal fibers: I'm just touching on these -- take a look at the Alden Amos Big Book of Handspinning, or Vogue Knitting for more in-depth discussion of specific fibers.

Cashmere is extraordinarily fine, hence its legendary softness. It's more fragile and less elastic than wool, and gets weaker when wet. Just pin to dimensions, spritz until damp, and let dry.
Merino Depending on the denseness of the fabric, the pin/spritz method is the way to go. With heavy cabling? I would wet-block, but very carefully.
Alpaca gets weaker when wet. It has less memory than wool, and has a tendency to stretch out of shape, getting bigger. The weight of water in the garment while wet-blocking would make accidental fabric stretching more possible. I would pin the pieces out dry, and then get them pretty wet by spritzing, and then do any reshaping.
Mohair is weaker when wet. Pin & spritz. When all done, a good brushing will pull the halo up, soft & fuzzy.

Linen. Spun from the long fibers of the flax plant, this ancient fiber is one of my favorites. Linen is unique among fibers in that it is stronger when wet. Use the 'whap' method to add length to a linen garment: get it soaking wet, and then 'whap' it against the side of the tub/shower a few times. My favorite linen blend is also machine washable. It gets stronger and softens up over time. Wet-blocking is the way to go with linen.
Cotton. Quite weak when wet, and inelastic -- has no memory, which is why store-bought cotton sweaters tend to stretch out of shape. If you put a lot of structure in your cotton knitwear [and knit to a half-stitch tighter gauge] you'll overcome these tendencies! I steam-block most cotton knits.
Silk. Filaments of silkworm cocoons, this is the only fiber that involves killing the animal that produces it [at least for reeled, Bombyx silk]. Vegan knitters beware. There are non-silkworm killing silk fibers out there, however. 100% silk garments can grow since silk is inelastic and has little memory; I personally find silk best in a blend. Silk is very fragile when wet, so wet blocking is NOT recommended. Pin out to required dimensions, spritz, and let dry.
100% Human-made fibers. Avoid heat & steam -- you'll kill your knitting! Kill meaning remove all structure and turn it into a limp pile of fabric. Unless you want that, of course. Pin out and spritz, let dry.
Blends. I go the safest route -- pin out, spritz, and let dry -- unless its primarily wool with a touch of human-made, and heavily cabled. Then I wet-block.
What about fluffy fakes? And things like Chamonix, or Binario/Eros? Novelty yarns get blocked on a case-by-case basis. Non-wearables need not be blocked, unless it gets very out of shape, or looks like it does. I would not use heat. I don't like the smell of melting knitting, not to mention scraping the stuff off my iron. Pin out and spritz. Feathery yarns I have wet-blocked by actually handwashing in baby shampoo and blow-drying for fluffiness but your mileage may vary. When adding fluffy/furry trims to another fiber garment, block the garment pieces before you add the funky trim -- the furry stuff might not survive the blocking that the garment might need. Last of all, some yarns cannot get wet without falling apart -- Berrocco's Chinchilla has produced horror stories for many of my acquaintance.
Browse the archives of online listservs for various blocking horror stories, or surprises. Sally Mellville's rescue for Touch Me chenille is a shocker -- throw it in the washer and dryer! [see KnitU list archives or Sally's fantastic new book, The Knitting Experience #1: The Knit Stitch for more details.].
Last of all, blocking is involved in one of my favorite knitting tricks for making fabric drape more attractively. I usually do this on knits with a gauge between 4.5 & 6 sts/inch, and never on 100% silk or cotton. I swatch until I get gauge. I swatch large-scale, to test the hand and drape of the fabric as well as my gauge. When I start the garment, I use a smaller needle size. Yes, I'm knitting 1/4 to 3/4-stitch to the inch tighter, yes, the fabric is more dense, and the garment comes out smaller. But -- I block the pieces to their correct size -- and the fabric opens up and has incredible drape, usually much better than the swatch.

Blocking Tools

blocking pins/t-pins -- purchase from the yarn store; the ones you get at the hardware store will RUST -- unless you want little brown spots through that pearly pink sweater, drop the extra, minimal cash.
steam iron -- use distilled water to keep it from getting hardening of the water-arteries.
spray bottle -- from the grocery store or drug store. Whatever.
tape measure -- and yardstick -- remember my caveat from my last column -- most likely, that old sewing tape measure of yours has stretched and gotten inaccurate. To mangle a woodworking phrase, measure twice, block once.
blocking board -- well, most of the time I use the long end of my chaise or my bed. Any surface you can pin into. If you want to make one, use this simple recipe:

Shop

• Go to a building center or hardware store and have them cut for you two 2-foot square pieces of 1" thick homosote.
• Pick up a staple gun and LOTS of staples.
• Buy 3 yards of 45" wide large-check [1" x 1"] gingham fabric at a fabric store
• Pick up 6 yards of 3" wide linen tape, and a fat glue stick.

Staple

• Wrap the linen tape widthwise around each edge of the two pieces of homosote. Use the glue stick to tack it into place, repositioning as needed.
• Use the staple gun to attach the linen tape. Staple every 2".
• Cut out four pieces of gingham 2 feet 2 inches square. Use the edge of one of the stripes as your cutting guideline so that the square has a grid of gingham inside.
• Iron a fold 1" in from the outside edge [i.e. you are turning under and ironing down 1" -- or one gingham stripe -- on each edge. This eliminates the need to sew anything and reinforces your stapling edge.]
• Starch and iron each square.
• Take one square and, using the glue stick, tack the corners down. Then tack the edges down. Check it to make sure that your grid is still square.
• Staple down the gingham.
• Surface the remaining three sides of the homosote with the gingham in the same fashion.

Voila! You now have two blocking boards.
"Why homosote? It's expensive. My friend used foam core."
"You certainly can use foam core if you'd like. Homosote is sturdy, and incredibly absorbent. It will wick water away from your garment so it dries more quickly. And it's like a bulletin board -- you can stick pins in it easily."
"And the gingham?"
"Check it with a ruler to make sure, but that 1" x 1" grid will help you shape your garments more quickly. At least, the verticals and horizontals will help you keep different areas of the garment lined up with each other."

One Day at a Time

All of these pictures were taken during one day while walking the beach on the island where I live.

It was a beautiful March day and I took the dog for a long walk to kill some time.
Here you can see how shallow the water is between the two islands! At low tide you can walk across the rock bar to the island in the distance. It is a remarkable place to live!

This is a Lobster Trap that was tumbled the thrown around so much that it barely resembles what it really is. It just looks like trash that has washed up on the beach.

The trap was thrown almost 50 feet from where the high water mark is on the beach. What you are looking at is the top of the beach that is not even close to the water!

The ocean is extremely unforgiving. It has magnificent powers that always amaze me and I live 300 feet from the ocean every day of my life.

This is yet another example of the ocean's power.

These two traps are completely entwined with each other and over the course of about a week they have been almost completely buried by the sand. If I were to go back to the same place today and try to find those traps there would be no way to locate them. There could possibly be some scrap metal left, but not much. Most of it has probably corroded or eroded away!

This is Abby. She is the newest addition to our little family. She is a Redtick Coonhound and we adopted her from our local shelter. She is a beautiful intelligent dog whom I love dearly. I cannot get enough of hounds! She is gun shy, but that's okay because we don't use them to hunt anyway. 

We are not really sure how she ended up in the shelter, but it doesn't really matter to us anyway. She has been a great addition to our family and has only caused minimal damage to the house! haha One of her favorite naughty things to do is eat the food off the table. You would think she never gets fed by the way she acts! 

Welcome Abby! 

This Norton. Yes, Norton. He was our very first dog ever. I know, why in god's name would I ever choose a beagle for my first dog? Well, he was FREE!  A family member didn't have enough time for him and passed him on to Nick and I. I am so great full that they did. I could not imagine living a day without those eyes staring at me. He is a beautiful boy who is attached to my hip. Sometimes it gets a little annoying, but most of the time I'm happy to have the companionship. He and Abby are now best of friends so normally wherever he goes, she goes too. 

I would not give my hounds up for anything in the world.

Some Knitting

Well, I scraped the cabled mittens. I just didn't like how they were turning out. So, I have taken the yarn that I had originally chosen for the mittens and have started a cute sweater.

The pattern is called February Lady Sweater and I found it on Ravelry.com. So far I am very pleased with how the sweater is turning out. I am just starting on the lace that will be the rest of the body of the sweater.

It is a very flowing cardigan with three buttons at the bust. It then sweeps away from the body with a lace pattern that also makes up the sleeves.

So far the sweater seems to fit! I will have to block it when it is completed and hopefully it will be a perfect match for me. I hope that I still like the color when I am done. It seems to be a little bright, but I think that It will work well with some dark jeans and a black top.

More to come later.